Thursday, April 19, 2007

Wipe out in style!

I recently rediscovered surfing. These weren't big waves by any stretch of the imagination, nor was I able to jump on my busted body board but I thought I felt the connection a surfer has with the surf. "I could do this all day" is what i kept saying over and over on the beach and wading in the water scanning for the next possible trip. Every time I thought I was able to read patterns in the waves i grew more and more aware that any kind of implied attachment to the waves only made things worst. I caught myself getting angry at the wave, cursing and slapping my board against the water. This didn't last long. I understood that I didn't choose the wave, the wave chose me. I just happen to be at the right place at the right time, with a little help with my eyes I make those moments more frequent. I learned to be thankful for the waves I caught, and to enjoy the ride as a unique event. I'm going to look into this in more detail!

I found a great clip for you to enjoy. I figured it would probably be more entertaining to watch some great surfers wipe out than see tricks we don't even know how to the sound track is great!


Post a Comment

<< Home